Here we have a 1937 ford panel truck
that has been chopped. The body on this kit is a resin body.
The body is sitting on the same frame layout as the 37 Ford
Street Rod Revell #7245. Many Thanks to F&F Resin for the body
of this kit. Thanks to Curtis Seeman for doing the body #297.
I had fun with this resin body. I personally am not quit ready
yet to do resin kits. I am how ever now using INSTA-CURE glue
which is a cyanoacrylate type of glue that is especially made
for working with the different kinds of plastic's that we as
modelers do get into from time to time. I had no problems with
painting the resin body or gluing it to the rest of the kit.
I just followed the outline that I have posted here below and
everything will fall into place. The only thing that I didn't
do until after I had the body and the wheel wells painted was
to dry fit the parts. This is when I found out that the body
did not fit in between the rear wheels. Hopefully this is not
noticeable until you have read this. I will be trying another
resin kit but not for a while. If you are interested in a resin
body you can check out F&F Resin Body from the links page. You
can also click on F&F Resin here in this text. Here are a couple
of tips for doing resin kits. SANDING: 1 You must sand a resin
kit to give the paint something to hold on to because it will
not etch into it like it will on normal plastic (styrenes).
2 We use FLEX-I-FILES (sand paper on a soft bendable stick)
to sand our bodies. Sand the body, fenders, and hood lightly
(just to scuff it) with a medium grit flex-i-file Use a soft
tooth brush to remove any dust from door lines, etc. 3 Once
again, use a soft toothbrush to remove sanding dust from door
lines, etc. Follow up with a tack rag, or thoroughly blow off
any dust from the rest of the body. PAINTING:1 Spray body, fenders,
hood with several coats of primer (if you are going to use a
lacquer paint, you MUST use a lacquer based primer- if using
an enamel paint, any primer will do.) Allow the primer to dry
thoroughly. Sand the primer until it has a smooth appearance.
2 Lacquer ( i.e. Duplicolor , etc....) will etch into normal
plastic (styrenes) kits. It will not harm resin. If you mess
up your paint job, the resin can be dipped into lacquer thinner
for easy removal of paint. It will not harm the resin. (Do Not
do this with styrenes plastic fenders and hood) you can use
oven cleaner to remove paint from styrenes safely. 3 Enamel
( i.e. Testors, etc....) Will not harm any plastic. 4 If you
plan to paint it two tone, DO NOT use lacquer over enamel!!!!!
It is ok to use enamel over lacquer. 5 Spray your paint like
you normally would using several coats. Allow the paint to dry
thoroughly before handling. GLUEING:1 You must use super glue
or an epoxy as model glue will not work. For putting in windows,
be sure to use a clear 5 minute epoxy, as super will turn your
Created by Everett Seifridsberger