Here we have a 1937 ford panel truck that has been chopped. The body on this kit is a resin body. The body is sitting on the same frame layout as the 37 Ford Street Rod Revell #7245. Many Thanks to F&F Resin for the body of this kit. Thanks to Curtis Seeman for doing the body #297. I had fun with this resin body. I personally am not quit ready yet to do resin kits. I am how ever now using INSTA-CURE glue which is a cyanoacrylate type of glue that is especially made for working with the different kinds of plastic's that we as modelers do get into from time to time. I had no problems with painting the resin body or gluing it to the rest of the kit. I just followed the outline that I have posted here below and everything will fall into place. The only thing that I didn't do until after I had the body and the wheel wells painted was to dry fit the parts. This is when I found out that the body did not fit in between the rear wheels. Hopefully this is not noticeable until you have read this. I will be trying another resin kit but not for a while. If you are interested in a resin body you can check out F&F Resin Body from the links page. You can also click on F&F Resin here in this text. Here are a couple of tips for doing resin kits. SANDING: 1 You must sand a resin kit to give the paint something to hold on to because it will not etch into it like it will on normal plastic (styrenes). 2 We use FLEX-I-FILES (sand paper on a soft bendable stick) to sand our bodies. Sand the body, fenders, and hood lightly (just to scuff it) with a medium grit flex-i-file Use a soft tooth brush to remove any dust from door lines, etc. 3 Once again, use a soft toothbrush to remove sanding dust from door lines, etc. Follow up with a tack rag, or thoroughly blow off any dust from the rest of the body. PAINTING:1 Spray body, fenders, hood with several coats of primer (if you are going to use a lacquer paint, you MUST use a lacquer based primer- if using an enamel paint, any primer will do.) Allow the primer to dry thoroughly. Sand the primer until it has a smooth appearance. 2 Lacquer ( i.e. Duplicolor , etc....) will etch into normal plastic (styrenes) kits. It will not harm resin. If you mess up your paint job, the resin can be dipped into lacquer thinner for easy removal of paint. It will not harm the resin. (Do Not do this with styrenes plastic fenders and hood) you can use oven cleaner to remove paint from styrenes safely. 3 Enamel ( i.e. Testors, etc....) Will not harm any plastic. 4 If you plan to paint it two tone, DO NOT use lacquer over enamel!!!!! It is ok to use enamel over lacquer. 5 Spray your paint like you normally would using several coats. Allow the paint to dry thoroughly before handling. GLUEING:1 You must use super glue or an epoxy as model glue will not work. For putting in windows, be sure to use a clear 5 minute epoxy, as super will turn your windows white.

Created by Everett Seifridsberger